Archive for the ‘Engine’ Category
Buttoning up..
Coming soon… motor build
Mopar 360LA motor shortblock built by MABBCO motors out of Tyler Texas.
From the MABBCO website:
This MABBCO® PERFORMANCE Remanufactured Short Block is for a Chrysler Dodge 360 5.9 motor, model years 1970-1988. This engine is identifiable by its non-roller camshaft, block casting numbers #601, #830, #930, #496, or #230, and is commonly known as an “LA” engine.
Each MABBCO® short block is custom assembled as ordered . MABBCO® short blocks include NEW pistons, piston rings, rod bearings, main bearings, cam bearings, timing set, and freeze plugs. MABBCO® short blocks are sold outright (No Core Return Required).
This MABBCO® PERFORMANCE Short block includes the following: (1) High Compression Flattop Pistons, (2) MOLY Rings, (3) HARDENDED Connecting Rod Bolts, and (4) a 272 MUSCLE Cam
Misc Items
The car had a few things that needed some attention to drive it more often.
- There was a banging noise coming from passenger rear.
- After a little look and test while it was off the ground, the front leaf spring connector bolts were not 100% tight. They were tight, but still loose enough to cause play. Cranked that baby down and solved this problem.
- Fuel Gauge not working.
- Some quick diagnosis showed that my ground strap was not fully connected. Pulled it off, sandblasted it and sanded the lines for a good contact. Did not fix the issue. Pulled the sender wire and grounded it and the fuel gauge went from E to beyond F..so the gauge is working as well as the wire. Looks like I’ll need to replace my brand new sending unit as it seems to be bad. Stay tuned.
- Terrible noise coming from Right Front.
- This one was a dandy. Pulled the right front tire and the brake caliper fell to the ground. The 2 monster bolts (1/2 x 20 x 1 3/4 Grade 8) were gone. Somehow managed to work themselves out. I know that they were tightened to 120 ft lbs….but I did not use any kind of lock-tite. I went to a local hardware store and picked up some new bolts and put everything back together. Everything is working fine and as expected, however this is something that I will check each time I drive it… for a little while at least until I’m convinced they’ll remain on the car.
- Overheating. Whenever the car was taken out, it overheated. Even if I was able to manage a decent speed with good air flow, it still overheated.
- I do not have a shroud, so that will be added at some point in the future.
- I was able to purchase a used electric fan at the same estate sale I got the rear spoiler from. No idea what the fan came off of or if it would even work, but it was marked $5 and everything was 50% off that day, so for $2.50, it was worth a shot.
- It’s a 16 inch fan and it worked. It fits offset from center favoring the drivers side and is just about as ‘tall’ as the height of the fins.
- Mounted it in front of the radiator in a ‘push’ fashion. Connected a 4 post, 30 amp relay to do the dirty work. It’s wired to engage when ignition is on, so it runs anytime the car is running. I prefer that scenario.
- Took the car for a ride and the temperature gauge didn’t go much above middle… which is good. A shroud should help even more.
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New valve springs
Received my new valve springs better matched for my installed cam from http://alexsparts.com. Fabricated a tool to compress the spring using compressed air in the cylinder. All springs and seals replaced. Ran them thru a heat/cool cycle and took it for a test drive. The car runs pretty good, still a little valve rap, but I’m thinking timing now.
Valve springs
At 2500 RPMs, seem to experience some valve floating. I will be replacing the stock valve springs with some performance springs supplied by Alexs Parts at http://alexsparts.com/. Alex will also be supplying new seals as well as multiple sizes of hardened shims to establish the correct installed height. Used compressed air and a home made valve spring depressor tool to unspring cylinder #1.
